The insurance company claim was going to cover costs of the damage to the flooring for both areas. This particular home was built around 2003. The builder still put linoleum in the kitchens at that time (don't ask me why). My neighbors put a wood floating floor over top of it after they moved in.
After the water damage, that floating floor was removed.
Now, being the nosey neighbor that I am, I couldn't keep my thoughts to myself about possibilities that could happen here.
The kitchen design had an extra tall over hang built up with a pony wall.
The problem with the design was this narrow isle way. This is a huge house and getting around in the great room, kitchen and breakfast nook was not so great with the tall peninsula and narrow isle.
After discussions, me poking my nose in to their business and talking about options, we came to a decision about a design plan that is going to work much better for this family of 6.
Out went the counter tops and over went the end cabinet to my house next door. I am going to show you the makeover that happened to this piece of the kitchen layout but I will have to share the full reveal another day (new floors and a counter top are coming)
The owners decided that an island that could roll out on occasion would work best. I knocked off the 4 1/2 inch toe kick where I could but had to run each side through the table saw to make it short enough to accommodate locking wheels.
I started from the bottom. Applied 1x4's to the bottom where the toe kicks were cut off. I needed something sturdy to screw the wheels to. I marked where the screws would go and made pilot holes.
The sides and back are getting some beaded board.
When cutting paneling, it's a good idea to tape off the area on the front side that will be cut so that the seam doesn't splinter or shred.
I used liquid nails and a little brad nailer to apply the board and 1x4 trim. I ripped the 1x4's for the sides and corners to 1/4 inch thick so they didn't stick out from the original maple front lip of the cabinet. The above photo shows where I used spackle and caulk on the seams.
The spackle is applied to fill in creases but also to make a layered paint look too.
The paint color is a mix of the kitchen wall color (Northampton Putty by Ben Moore) and white. Once it is all painted and caulked. I let it sit over night to cure.
Next day - sanded the whole thing with 220 grit sand paper and an orbital sander.
The air compressor is great for blowing away unwanted dust.
Glazing bead board is tricky. The little vertical grooves can grab that stain and make them dark. That opens a whole new can of worms because then they should all be glazed. This piece is going to stay on the lighter side so I didn't apply stain in the grooves.
Here is how I glaze painted cabinets or furniture.
Apply stain in small areas at a time. Use vegetable oil or baby oil on an old t-shirt to "move" the stain around.
I am using an old t-shirt soaked with Canola oil and using circular motions to rub the color into the painted areas and the exposed wood where I distressed it by sanding.
See how the color changes and the exposed wood grabs the stain color?
You read right the first time...Canola Oil!
Rustic and worn with industrial wheels.
A boxed out bottom with access to the wheels that can lock in place.
Wood shows through the paint in random places. I try to make these marks where the furniture might wear naturally.
This is an area that the spackle made the paint look like it had other paint layers underneath.
It's ready for the counter top.
(more of this story to come)
So come on back for #2!